dimond



No. 608,152. Patented July 26, i898.

c.. H. mMoNn & w. F. DIAL.

HEMSTITCH 0R PEN WRK SEWING MACHlNE.

(Application filed Sept. 16, 1897.) (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet I,

muil QN l @www -wmw i mmm" IH No. 608,52. 'Patented my 26, |898.

G. H. DlMUND'. W. F. DlAL. HEMSTITGH 0R UPEN WORK SEWING MACHINE.

(Appxiwion med sept. 16, 1897.) Y* A (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2..

GEORGE II. DIMOND AND VILBUR F. DIAL, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT,ASSIGNORS TO TI-IE WHEELER du WILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY,

OF SAME PLACE.

HEIVISTITCH OR OPEN-WORK SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 608,152, dated July 26,1898. Application led September 16, 1897. Serial No. 651,825.l (Nomodel.)

To all whom t may con/007%.-

Be it known that we, GEORGE H.A DIMOND and WILBUR F. DIAL, ofBridgeport, county of Fairfield, State of Connecticut, have invented anImprovement in I-Iemstitch or Opcn-Vork Sewing-Machines, of which thefollowing description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, isa specification, like letters and figures on the drawings representinglike 1o parts.

This invention has for its object the production of a novel machine forso-called hemstitch7 or open work stitching, stitching such as employedin connection with hems of pocket-handkerchiefs, sheets, pillowcases,dac. l

The machine to be herein described employs a needle-bar having aneye-pointed needle, and said needle-bar, besides its usual 2oreciprocating motion, is vibrated laterally. Let it be supposed that theneedle has just risen from the material of one thickness outside theedge of the hem and that a new stitch is to be made. To do this, thematerial z 5 Vwill be fed for one stitch, and the needle-bar will thendescend and again penetrate the material of single thickness outside thehem in the line of the seam, and then it `will again rise, be movedlaterally, and descend 3o through the hem near its edge, and then willagain rise, be moved laterally, and descend again in the material of onethickness outside the hem, it entering again the same hole from which itarose, these three operations completing a stitch. 4During the lastthree penetrations of the needle described the material remainsstationary; but as the needle rises after this third descent the feed isagain operated to move `the material forward 4o for one stitch; butwhile the feed is taking place the needle is not vibrated, andconsequently at its next descent it penetrates again the material ofsingle thickness outside the edge ofthe hem, repeating the describedstitch. f a a In the class of Work wherein a series of openings are toappear in the single thickness of material parallel with the edge of thehem such openings have heretofore been 5o made by feeding the materialwhile the needle stood in it, thus enabling the needle to hold back someof the threads of the material and leave a somewhat elongated opening,and so also the needle when in the material of single thickness has beenvibrated laterally to enlarge the hole in which it stood, and in boththese instances the feed of the material has been two stitches forwardand one backward; and so, also, a needle-bar and needle having avertical motion and a lateral motion when out of the goods has hadcoperating withit a spreader longer than the needle, vsaid spreaderalways deseendin g with the needle, and when the needle descendedthrough the material of .single thickness the spreader passed throughthe material in advance of the point of the descending needle; but whenthe needle descended in the edge of the hem said spreader did not followit, but stood in such relation to the needle that a line intersectingthe needle and spreader would cross the edge of the hem at substantiallya right angle.

In the plan last above referred to the spreader is so connected with itsbar that it must always descend in just the same position relatively tothe edge of the hem and needle, and no provision is made for varying theposition of the spreader to provide for changes in the vibration of theneedle and its bar, as required by the particular material being actedupon.

In this our invention we employ a needlebar and needleV and impart bothverticaland lateral motions to the needle, the lateral motion being,however, when out of the material, and we have combined with thisneedle-bar a piercer-carrying bar which is moved vertically in unisonwith it, said bar having at its lower end an adjustable arm provided atits free end withV a straight but pointed piercer, the point of thepiercer being of such length as to penetrate the materialof singlethickness only after the needle has entered the material, andlsaidshorter piercer always enters the material of single thickness atthat side of the needle next the operator, so that said piercer makesand opensahole for the needle in the direction of the length of theseam, the said piercer defining a hole in advance of the hole in whichthe needle enters in making the stitch.

In this our invention We may adjust the piercer with relation to theneedle in the direction of the length of the seam, and it may also beadjusted to occupy a position closer to or farther from the edge of thehem, according to the lateral throw of the needle, or, in other words,the piercer may be adjusted freely in any direction with relation to thepoint of the needle.

In this our invention the feed takes place only once for each threepenetrations of the needle, and the feed is only in the forwarddirection, this plan of feeding eifectually doing away with the shocksdue to reversing the feed at high speed and the liability of missingthreads in the backstitch, the missing of threads being due to thefailure of the feed to accurately move the material backwardly to enablethe needle to enter a previouslymade hole, the missing of threadsseriously marring the symmetry, uniformity, and appearance of theopenings at the edge of the hem, and dispensing with the back feed alsodoes away with any puckering of the overturned part of the hem on itsbody, and, further, because of the feed being always in one directionthe operator may guide and handle the work with the greatest ease,whereas when the back-stroke feed is used the operator has to adjust themovements of her hands and eyes rapidly to the backward and forwardmovements of the material, which is very wearing. So, also, by reason ofthe fact that the piercer and needle occupy tandem position, one inadvance of the other, in the direction of the length of the seam, thetendency of the material to be thrown out of proper straight-linemovement is practically done away with.

Figure 1 shows a front side elevation of the machine embodying ourinvention. Fig. 2 is an enlarged section taken below the dotted line x,Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a face view of the cam for controlling the directionof movement of the feed device.` Fig. 4 shows the feed-barlifting cam.Fig. 5 is an enlarged detail showing parts iof the needle-bar and needleand piercer-carrying bar, its arm and attached piercer. Fig. Gis adiagram delineating the stitch to be lnade.

The bed A, the overhanging arm A', containing the needle-bar-operatingcrank-shaft A2, having at its forward end a cam-hub A3 for operating thetake-up A4, the needle-bar gate B, containing the needle-barB, providedwith an eye-pointed needle b and reciprocated by the link A5, said gatebeing pivotally mounted on usual vertical trnnnions or pivots and havingconnected to it a link B3, adjustably connected by a stud B4 in a slotB5 of a rocking arm BG of a shaft B2, which is vibrated at suitabletimesby or from a suitable cam C, mounted in a stud CX, said arm having aroller-stud t, entering the cam-slot the presser-foot bar b2, having, asherein a suitable crank, which in its rotations will actuate any usualor suitable circularly-moving loop-taker, (not shown,) said shaft havinga pinion D5, which engages a toothed gear DG on a short shaft D7, havingat its front end a feed-lifting cam D8, (shown separately in Fig. 4,)which at the proper time moves the feeddog, raising and loweringrock-shaft D10, it having a space to let the usual feed-dog b5 drop andbe moved back under the work preparatory to being again lifted to feedthe material when the feed is to again take place, and the rock-shaft E,having an arm EX, to which one end of the feed-dog is pivotallyconnected, said rock-shaft having a second arm connected withafeed-regulatinglink E', having a roller or other stud entering asegmental groove E2 in an arm projected from one end of a shaft E3, saidshaft having a second arm E4, provided with a pin E5, having a roller orother stud to enter the cam-groove E6 in the toothed wheel D, saidcam-groove determining the time of the forward feed with relation to thenumber of stitches made by the needle, are and may be all substantiallyas now employed in the Wheeler da Wilson sewing-machines andasrepresented in United States Patent No. 479,739, dated July 23, 1892,and in application, Serial No. 448,193, filed October 8, 1892, with theexception of slight differences in shape of the cam-groove in thetoothed wheel D6 and of the shape of the cam C, to be described, or, inother words, in the shape of the particular cam-paths of the camsemployed for vibrating the needle-bar gate and for determining theforward direction of the feed with relation to a predetermined number ofstitches.

The cam C, as represented best in Fig. l, is so made that it is rotatedonce to each three complete rotations of the needle-bar-actuating shaft,and supposing that the needle-bar IOO IIO

is elevated and that said cam occupies such position as to enable theneedle to stand above the material at one side of the edge of the hemlthe operation will be as follows, viz: The feed will take place, theneedle-bar will descend through the material of one thickness near theedge of the heln, and then it will rise and the needle-bar will be movedlaterally, so that at its next descent it will pass through the hem nearits edge, and rising from the said hem the needle-bar will be againmoved laterally, it descending a second time in the same hole in thematerial of single thickness from which it arose prior to enteringthehem near its edge. The second descent of the needle in this same hole inthe material of single thickness enables two stitches to be made in thesame hole, and after this the feed again take place and a stitch is nextmade in the next hole in the direction of the length of the seam. Saidlast stitch,when tightened in the thin part of the material, tends todraw together the material of the thin part between the two distinctholes in theline of the seam, such drawing taut of the stitch enlargingand defining with accuracy the holes to be made parallel with the edgeof the hem,'the tightening of the stitches effectually tying the partsin position. Cooperating with this needle-bar and needle we haveprovided the inner side of the face-plate of the machine with two lugs118, which we have bored to constitute bearings for, as herein shown, around bar G, which we designato the piercer-bar. The upper end of Athisbar has adj ustably secured .to it by a set-screw G a collar G2, havinga stud g, the said stud entering loosely a hole made transverselythrough the upper end of the needle-bar, said needle-bar thusreciprocating thebar G in unison with it.

The lower end of the bar G has adj ustably secured to it by aclamp-screw g a block G3, the said block being preferably grooved at itsfront side for the reception of the adj ustable,

piercer-carryin g arm G, provided at its inner end with the piercer g3,said block being adj ustable horizontally to provide for any change inlateral throw of the needle-bar to thereby bring it nearer to or fartherfrom the edge of the hem by or through the same clamp-screw g,and thepiercer may also be adjustable vertically in its arm by means of aset-screw g4, and by loosening the set-screw G in the collar G2 the saidbar G may be turned in said collar to thus move the piercer somewhattoward or from the side of the needle toward the operator, suchadjustment placing the piercer more or less distant from the side of theneedle next the operator.

The needle-bar B has connected to it by screw 30 ablock 31,which carriesa stud which is embraced by the lower end of the link A5, which isemployed to reciprocate the needlebar. This screw 30 may be loosenedincase of any wear between the stud g and the hole in the upper end ofsaid bar, and the said bar may be slightly turned in the said collar 3l,which willcause both sides of the hole in said needle-bar to come incontact with the saidV stud,thus compen satiugfor any looseness due towear.

From the foregoing it will be seen that the piercer has only a verticalmovement, that it always occupies a position between the line ofvertical movement of the needle through the material of single thicknessand the operator, and that it always penetrates the maferial of singlethickness a stitch in advance of the point where the needle penetratesthe material to make a stitch, so that said piercer makes and defines atleast a stitch in advance the hole to be entered by the needle, and itwill also be noticed that the piercer enters twice the same hole made byit, just as the needle, as before stated, enters twice the saine holewhen making the stitch before described.

By connecting the needle-bar and the piercer-carrying bar by means of acollar having a stud the said stud is enabled to perform twofunctions-viz., one to cause the piercer-bar to rise and fall in unisonwith the needle-bar and` yet permit the needle-bar to be vibrated withthe gate, and at the same time the piercer-bar is kept from rotation,yet it may when occasion requires be turned axially in the said collarto position the piercer with relation to the needle,which could not bedone if the piercer-carrying bar were square and were reciprocated in abox-like groove.

The cam C is engaged by a Jtoothed gear C on a stud C2, extended fromthe plate B8, attached to theoverhangin g arm A by suitable set-screwsB9, said plate being partially broken away in Fig. l.

The toothed gear C2 has fixed to it a bevelgear B6, which is engaged androtated by a bevel-gear B10, fast on shaft A2.

Referring to Fig. G, let n represent a piece of material having a hem n'laid over upon it, the line n2 representing the edge of the hem. We willdescribe the method of making one complete three-stitch figure. Let itbe supposed that the needle has just risen fromthe material of onethickness outside the edge of the hem. Now the iirststep is to feed thematerial in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 6, and the needle will thendescend, the needle penetrating the material off the hem at the pointn3. Then the needle will rise, the gate will be moved laterally, and theneedle will penetrate the material of the hem at the point n4, and thenthe needle will IOO again rise from the material'and the needlebar gatewill be moved in the opposite direction, again putting the needle inexactly the same position that it stood inwhen it made the penetrationdesignated n3, the needle again descending through the same hole n3.

In each of these descents a suitable under thread will lock the loop ofneedle-thread, and having risen a second time from the hole n34 thethree-stitch figure will be` completed and the material will be againfed, the needle next descending at the point a5 in the material ofsingle thickness offthe hem. To better illustrate thisA stitch, Fig. 6,we have slightly separated the needle-thread between the points n3 andn4, so as to show two lines IIO of thread; but in practice these twolines of y gate to contain said needlebar means tomove said gatelaterally transverse to the feed movement of the material; means tomovesaid needle-bar vertically in said gate; a piercercarrying barlocated at one side of said needle-bar in the direction of the lateralmovement of said bar, an arm connected to said bar and projectingtherefrom in a line trans- Verse to the direction of the feed movement,a piercer attached to said arm, xed guides for saidpiercer-carrying'bar; and means to reciprocate said piercer-carryin gbar and said needle-bar in unison, said piercer making an opening in thematerial in advance of the needle in the line of the seam, substantiallyas described. Y.

2. A needle-bar having an eye-pointed needle; a needle-bar gate; meansto hold said needle-bar gate in position to enable the needle to descendin the material off the hem, and then to move said gate to enable theneedle to descend through the material of the hem, and then to move saidgate to enable the needle to again enter the material off the liem inthe same hole previously made by the needle; feeding mechanism to feedthe material for one stitch only in the direction of the length of theseam between the two descents of the needle in the samevertical plane; apiercercarrying bar, an arm extended therefromhorizontally transverse tothe feed, and adjustably connected to said piercer-carrying bar, apiercer attached to said arm, and means to reciprocate saidpiercer-carrying bar and said needle-bar in unison, said piercer makingan opening in the material in advance of the needle in the direction ofthe length of the seam for the reception of the needle in making asucceeding stitch, substantially as described.

3. In asewing-machine, ahead having fixed bearin gs apiercer-carryingbar litted to slide in said bearings, a piercer, a horizontally-extendedarm to which said piercer is attached, and means to connect said armadjustably with said piercer-carrying bar, whereby the arm and piercermay be adjusted not only transversely but axially on saidpiercer-carrying bar, to thereby control the exact relative positionsbetween the said piercer and needle when penetrating the material offthe hem, substantially as described.

4. In a sewing-machine, aneedle-bar gate, means to move it laterally,aneedle-bar therein having a needle; means to reciprocate saidneedle-bar, a piercer-carryin g bar movable in bearings connected withthe head of the machine, a piercer, a horizontally-extended arm to whichsaid piercer is attached, and means to connect said arm adjustably withksaid piercer-carrying bar, whereby the arm and piercer may be adjustednot only transversely but axially on said piercer-carrying bar, tothereby control the exact relative positions between the said piercerand needle when penetrating the material off the hem, substantially asdescribed.

5. In a sewing-machine, a needle-bar gate, means to move it laterally, aneedle-bar provided With a needle and mounted in said gate, means tomove said needle-bar vertically in said gate, a piercer-carrying baroccupying a position parallel to said needle-bar and having its bearingsin the head of the sewingmachine, an arm connected to saidpiercercarrying bar, and provided with a piercer, combined with a studon one of said bars entering a hole in the other of said bars, said studbeing adjustable axially around or with relation to the bar carrying itto permit the adjustment of said bars axially as required, substantiallyas described.

G. In a sewing-machine, aneedle-bar gate, means to move it laterally, aneedle-bar mounted in said gate, and provided with a needle, means tomove said needle-bar vertically in said gate, a piercer-carrying barhaving attached to its lower end an arm provided with a piercer,bearings for said piercer-carrying bar, said bearings being in the headof the sewing-machine, a stud having at one end an orifice to surroundone of said bars, the stud entering a hole in the other of said bars,and a set-screw to fix said stud in adjusted position on one of saidbars, both of said bars occupying a position side by side in a planetransverse to the direction of the feed, the loosening of the set-screwholding said stud in position enabling the said piercercarrying bar tobe turned axially to place the piercer more or less close to the side ofthe needle carried by the needle-bar, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification inthe presence of two subscribing witnesses.

GEORGE I'I. DIMOND. WILBUR F. DIAL.

Witnesses for George H. Dimonda ISAAC HOLDEN, GEo. CoRNwELL. Witnessesfor W. F. Dial:

GEo. W. GREGORY, LAURA MANIx.

IOO

